Clip, clop, clip, clop…the sound of high heels on cement. Intimidating, somewhat, but leads the way for a very sophisticated, minimal (new direction!) collection from Francisco Costas for Calvin Klein. Structured and architectural.
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Bok-hee has her work cut out for her. At Rebecca Taylor there is a lot of hair doing going on! Bok-hee is using setting lotion, then a 2inch iron to curl, then brushing it out, then back combing, then crimping, then brushing and finally, um, curling. The end result desired is that of full movement, airiness and texture. I suggest the models probably looked like that when they came in, but that doesn’t go over too well. I must say it is very effective, if not damaging!
Over in make up Romy Soleimani with MAC is creating a fresh, washed out version of a late 70’s dreamer, Teal eye with a little gold sparkle. A lip she calls ‘lingerie’, actually 3N MAC, and soft contour on the cheeks. Very pretty. Rebecca Taylors girl is inspired by Charlotte Gainsburgh, (my total fave) and a woman that is an aristocrat, but has lost everything, and apparently has to live on her inheritance. Phew. Glad that was cleared up. She drinks Pastis and smokes at the local cafes in Paris. Right, but what does she wear? OK, the clothes are somber, greys, black, hand painted prints and gentle florals. Pretty. Boyfriend jackets and crombies. A gorgeous grey sweater with lace at the neckline. The signature petit dot black lace
yoke on silk dresses, and a sequined cardi. The only color is purple platforms, cheetah print bags and a very sparkly runway. A beautiful dandelion dress with a shearling vest. Great look. I guess the shearlings are the designers Kiwi roots. Colors are muted, almost overwashed, dingy. At last, a pretty floral, chiffon dress with some edge, it’s not prissy.

What a nice proposition. “Come on up to the Marchesa show and look at the make up” Oh, ok, if I must. Arrive at the Stila set up and talk to Talia Sobrook and Sara Lucero. The inspiration is Elizabethan. Pure, pale skin, matt, but still pretty. (Trend alert) Talia assures me that matt skin will be the next big thing in make up.
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….a thing or two about dressing us! I think he just gets what we want. This collection has bit of everything, and seems a little more eclectic than his other shows. A few of the skirts are on the longish side, but the genius triple buckle shoes (trend alert) give enough length to the leg not to be dowdy.
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At Michael Kors the lady is strong and polished, and is swishing around in lilac and cheetah. I felt a nostalgic pang for the good, old fashioned flesh colored pumps, they seemed fresh and unpretentious. (more…)

Different story over at Diesel. I attack James Kiliardos first at make up. His inspiration is Siouxsie & the Banshees, but instead of her hard black eye, a softer brown one, Charcoal Brown & Espresso by MAC. The eyeshadow has a graphic shape, as do the clothes, explains Wilbert Das the designer. Geometric shapes of the 80’s, but reinterpreted in warm, earthy colors for now.

Bleached jeans and huge dolman/batwing sleeves send me spiraling back to the scary decade, but at least it isn’t Dynasty cobalt blue. Laurent Philippon is doing my fave hair. Glam rock, sexy & urban. A one inch barrel iron, Bumble & Bumble styling wax, with a sprinkling of Laurents dry shampoo, which grabs onto the wax, creating a thick and ‘dirty’ look. It is very good. There is a photographers war going on out there. The stage is set with fake photogs at one end of the runway, right opposite the real guys and girls. Black dresses and jumpsuits. Great layers of sweaters and shirts. Proportions are fun, with shirts hanging out with narrow jeans or super baggy. Oversized jackets, but without big shoulders, the coolest padded leather arm-warmers. Silk parachute pants, a fur jerkin and t shirts. Washed denim baggy pegged jeans…I’m scared, but strangely into it.

I am so damn tired. My feet are now curbstones encased in fashionable shoes, and my head is full of feathers, wool, wide skirts and skinny belts. I take myself to a zen place. Robert Verdi has put together a fabulous luxe pad and has opened it up to his friends. Audrey Hepburn is just having her breakfast outside Tiffany’s on a wide screen TV when I enter, I am served my breakfast, on a real plate (!) someone does my hair, and a lovely lady touches up my make up. Robert and I compare stories, (his are better) and I feel better. It is brilliant to be quiet for an hour, and he kindly gives me his driver to take me up to the Tents. I almost feel human. Miss my children.

Monique Lhuillier is on the books for this morning, and she is truly sumptuous. When I arrive at my seat, I pick up the run of show and begin to read. (more…)

I have always been terrified of big skirts, but they are at Prada and now my lovely Peter Som has some beauties. So if he tells me it’s a must, then ok. Great mix of Tweeds, tulle, fur and blue velvet. One tweed jacket shot through with lurex, a goat fur collar and a double belt is super lux. A black pvc short mac, worn over an aquamarine volumnous skirt. Little blue velvet booties that kinda broke my heart. A tweed skirt with ruffles and tulle peeking out under neath. The colors are green, plum, grey, navy cream and brown.
An incredible cocktail dress with feathers and a sparkly top, some tartan mixed with print brocade, and a definite turn towards a big skirt with a leaner top. The hair is a messy french twist, make up oh-so-light golden eyes, but the shoes, Louboutin pink & brown platforms, some with tortoiseshell. I scream a little bit under my breath, and the fashionista’s around me narrow their eyes!!!

Opulence and decadence, we’re at a big show! There are so many unbelievably lovely women here, my head is spinning around like a fashion owl. Carolina Herrera has called us to the hunt! The show begins with the bugle cry from some far away country estate, and the most impossibly tall model emerges with riding pants, a wool coat and a Robin Hood hat with full on feathers. There are some yellow jodhpurs tucked into the sickest of sick double layered boots. The colors are grey/blue, mustard, rust, brown, licorice, and a rich rich chocolate. It is all so opulent. A silver threaded tight vest over a long silk chiffon skirt is lovely. Gowns worn with fur vests, printed silk chiffon of birds and such. Hunting capes in brown check. Red carpet affairs, a mustard yellow chiffon gown with a signature striped grosgrain ribbon tied to one side in back, and a floor length silk brown affair with a long feather threaded through the bustle; that would be a bitch to sit on during the Oscars! But the thing that remains embedded in my mind is one felt hat with the loooongest feather ever trailing behind the model. It was beautiful and a fantasy.

Marlene sang us in, and we are transported back to the 40’s at DVF. The models have fluffy, totally Breck girl backcombed hair, that actually reminds me of Diane, somewhat. I love the mix of everything….beautiful Glenn plaid blazers belted over silk and lace slips. A Jean Harlow gold lurex gown. An adorable way of putting 2 cardigans over a blouse and then belting the lot with a narrow croc belt. So sweet, I immediately want to go home and get my belt. An enourmous black bag with animal print walks down, big enough to fit any toddler! A pretty flesh and grey ruffle tea length dress with grey vest belted over top. A tobacco skirt, raspberry silk shirt and navy sweater, love these colors together. There is a warm, real mix of colors and textures. Any piece form this collection would fit in your closet. The evening wear has a lovely black lace cocktail dress with a floral cardigan belted, of course! Christina sings us out with “Candy Man”.

Mr Jonathan Saunders, ok, wow! Um, yep…that’s about it! So, this is the first time Jonathan has shown in NY, I believe. There is a contained buzz about him. I guess that is the only reason I persevere in trying to find the location for the show. I have my computer with me, ‘cos it crashed and had been at the Genius Bar all day, so I’m lugging this dead weight about in my Lambertson Truex tote, staggering around on my Vivienne Westwoods, freezing my butt off. But, I finally find the place and it is so worth it. Probably the most beautiful tailoring I have seen so far, gorgeous structured dresses in camel with pale blue inlay. Cashmere knit dresses, some dark leather detailing, suede patchwork boots. Pleated panels of waxed silk divide a dress down the side. The colors are perfect, aubergine, teal, rust, olive and black. An amazing boucle vest with a huge fox hood. The tightly structured bodices on the dresses and jackets are juxtaposed with the lightest of pleated chiffon. There is a definite futuristic feel to the clothes and the structure and detail. But then the prints are so free, almost like a Jackson Pollack painting, they are a perfect complement. The girls hair is scraped back in a tight knot with a small black snood covering the bun. Quite austere and serious. It takes me ages to find a cab!

Did you see the bikes around town? Spent the morning at the Apple genius bar with a crashed computer. Can ruin ones day, you know. Eventually made it downtown to see DKNY. Rust brocade puffy skirts topped with cashmere cardigans and sweaters in black or camel. sweet vintage inspired prints, a bit grandma’s attic, quite eclectic, but made modern with volume and puff!
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